1.
Waves; definition; height, wavelength, (average data), crest, trough,
wavelength, wave period.
2.
Factors, influencing wavelength, height, and period.
3.
Swell; movement of waves in deep water, vs. shallow water; wave-basis; brakes of
waves
4.Surf,
swash, backwash; wave refraction, long-shore current; rip current
5.Tides,
definition, causes
6.Semidiurnal,
diurnal, mixed tides, example locations
7.Tidal
interval, tidal range, examples,
8.
Spring tides, neap tide (causes, explanation)
9.
Flood tide, ebb tide, slack water. Speed of tidal currents.
10. Coastal
erosion, wave-cut platform, sea-cave, sea-arch, sea stack
11.
Coastal transport, and deposition; Beach, parts of it,
12.
Longshore drift; spit; baymouth bar, tombolo, barrier island
13.
Human induced sedimentation; breakwaters, groins, jetties
14.
Beach nourishment; example
15.
Types of coast: secondary, primary; emergent, submergent, eustaries
16. Sea
level change!!! (human induced?) global warming (Do people cause it?)