Waves; definition; height, wavelength, (average data), crest, trough,
wavelength, wave period.
Factors, influencing wavelength, height, and period.
Swell; movement of waves in deep water, vs. shallow water; wave-basis; brakes of
swash, backwash; wave refraction, long-shore current; rip current
diurnal, mixed tides, example locations
interval, tidal range, examples,
Spring tides, neap tide (causes, explanation)
Flood tide, ebb tide, slack water. Speed of tidal currents.
erosion, wave-cut platform, sea-cave, sea-arch, sea stack
Coastal transport, and deposition; Beach, parts of it,
Longshore drift; spit; baymouth bar, tombolo, barrier island
Human induced sedimentation; breakwaters, groins, jetties
Beach nourishment; example
Types of coast: secondary, primary; emergent, submergent, eustaries
level change!!! (human induced?) global warming (Do people cause it?)