study guide on Shoreline

1. Waves; definition; height, wavelength, (average data), crest, trough, wavelength, wave period.

2. Factors, influencing wavelength, height, and period.

3. Swell; movement of waves in deep water, vs. shallow water; wave-basis; brakes of waves

4.Surf, swash, backwash; wave refraction, long-shore current; rip current

5.Tides, definition, causes

6.Semidiurnal, diurnal, mixed tides, example locations

7.Tidal interval, tidal range, examples,

8. Spring tides, neap tide (causes, explanation)

9. Flood tide, ebb tide, slack water. Speed of tidal currents.

10. Coastal erosion, wave-cut platform, sea-cave, sea-arch, sea stack

11. Coastal transport, and deposition; Beach, parts of it,

12. Longshore drift; spit; baymouth bar, tombolo, barrier island

13. Human induced sedimentation; breakwaters, groins, jetties

14. Beach nourishment; example

15. Types of coast: secondary, primary; emergent, submergent, eustaries

16. Sea level change!!! (human induced?) global warming (Do people cause it?)